Day 12 - Rivers and Red Clay : Navarette to Najera

Awake and well rested, our breakfast this morning consisted of yesterday's grocery purchases, and included two muffins, a glass of orange juice, and two cups of instant coffee. Unable to fit our travel bottles into the sink, our first stop in the morning was at the public fountain at the edge of town, a unique and wonderful daily experience. Soon afterwards we trekked out through the city streets and into the countryside, enjoying the cooler temperatures of the early morning.

 

The path today was lined with traditional arrow markers and was occasionally supplemented with inspiring Camino graffiti and pilgrim created stone markers. One of our favourites was a stone upon which had been written "The Way is Beautiful because you are". 

Perhaps the most stunning thing about the region surrounding Najera is the eye catching red hillsides against which the town is situated. The region was originally settled by the Romans but has since been the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre, a province under Muslim control, and the site of both convents and monasteries.

 

Outside of the town of Ventosa we spent 1/2 an hour enjoying the morning's sunrise, while sitting at the side of the path. There is no describing the sunrises and sunsets in Spain - given the clean air, absence of mass industry, and limited number of large highway systems, the sky is amazingly clear. Today we also enjoyed a packed lunch on the side of the trail, sitting on the edge of a wheat field where we relaxed our bodies and rested our feet. 

 

Prior to entering into Najera we passed a series of concrete sound barriers upon which someone had taken the time to write a beautiful poem on the Camino.

Soon afterwards we arrived at the outskirts of Najera, and relaxed at a local bar and enjoyed chocolate croissants and cafe con leches while sitting in the shade and considering our options for tonight's lodgings. After our short break, we crossed over a waterway and soon came to the centre of town, where we found the Albergue Turistico, Puerta de Najera. 

Given that we arrived almost 3 hours before its doors would open, we ended up sitting in the adjacent park with two Canadians from Saskatchewan, whom we had previously seen but not had the chance to talk with. It turned out that both were finding the hike very challenging and were becoming somewhat depressed as it was not what they had expected. They also mentioned that they had called and apparently all of the albergues were full and that we would likely have a problem finding beds. To help us they called the Albergue Turistico and requested two extra beds be put in their room to ensure we had a place to stay. As I write this I am amazed by their generosity and kindness, especially to people whom they did not know. It is humbling. Am I that kind to those at home who I don't know? Am I kind to those who need or ask for my help? I don't know that I am, but I hope to be a better person when I get home.

By 1 pm we were allowed to check in, at which time we discovered that the private room we were sharing with the other couple was approximately the size of a large walk-in closet. With two bunk beds in it, there was scarcely space to stand on the floor, and there were no windows. Despite the cramped quarters, the couple from Saskatchewan remained in great spirits and were very kind. 

Given that this was their room, we decided to allow them some privacy and wander around town. During our walk along the beautiful and tree lined waterway we found several of our Canadian and European friends, with whom we had spent a great deal of time. They were kind enough to wave us over and we enjoyed lunch together. Afterwards, while most were hoping to wash and rest, several of us were interested in exploring the nearby Monastero de Santa Maria la Real, as well as the historic caves nearby. 

The monastery, an imposing red bricked building, was founded in the 11th century after a sculpture of the Virgen de la Rosa was found in a nearby cave. After paying our admission fee, we entered the church to see the structure's beautiful domed ceiling and its magnificent golden alter. At the back of the structure, flanking the entrance to the cave, are the intricate crypts of Navarra's royalty, as well as the famed historical alcove. 

 

  

 

Afterwards we decided to climb the red hillside to see if we could explore some of the historical caves in the region, but unfortunately they had been sealed off. We were however rewarded with a magnificent view over the town of Najera.

By dinner time, tired from our climb, we returned to the main courtyard were Sean and I said our goodbyes for the evening and set out to have dinner at a restaurant. After enjoying our meal and some wine at the river's edge we returned to our room to find the couple from Saskatchewan sleeping, and so we quietly got into our sleeping bags and concluded the day. 

As of today we are approximately 600 km from Santiago, a prospect which is very exciting and encouraging. Amazing to think that given a little determination a person can hike 200 km in less than two weeks, meet so many amazing people, and have so many experiences.  Tomorrow we hope to get to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
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Practical Information:

Distance: 16.2 km
Max Temperature: 38°C
Accommodations: Albergue Turistico, Puerta de Najera (15 Euros/person)