Day 2 - The Company of Canadian Pilgrims : Paris to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
The SNCF train system in France is pretty good. The cars are quiet and clean, making it possible to relax and enjoy the view of the passing French countryside. Despite feeling rushed to get to our train (a symptom of our own expectations and excitement), we found the public transportation system very efficient, and the pace of Paris and its inhabitats to actually be quite unhurried. During our 5 hour trip we enjoyed an espresso before arriving in Bayonne, where we had a two hour break before catching the next train to St. Jean Pied Port.
When we returned to the train station we met two Canadians on the platform, who were also setting out on the Camino. They looked like they were in considerably better shape and clearly better prepared than us. During our brief talk they mentioned that their packs were much lighter than ours, which soon had us wondering how well we had thought through our packing and plans for the coming hike.
In SJPP all of the pilgrims disembarked, and our horde, complete with backpacks, moved as one through the town following the shell markers to the easily located pilgrim office.
En route we wandered though historic narrow stone cobbled streets lined with bakeries, gift shops, and pilgrim hostels, which are called gites in France or albergues in Spain. At the pilgrim office we stood in line with dozens of others, left our bags at the door, and registered as pilgrims en route to Santiago. In this office we received our pilgrim passports, our first stamp, purchased our shells, and were given a printed sheet with elevation profiles and a list of accommodations along the Camino route.
By 6 pm we returned to the albergue to get ready for dinner and discovered that our room had filled up with other hikers, some of whom were already asleep, some of whom were changing their clothes, and one of whom was simply walking around naked. It was at this point that the realities of just how different life will be for the next month finally began to set in. I think the shift from enjoying private living quarters to sharing accommodations with 20 or more other people each night will be a challenging one, but hopefully also a good one!
We shared a wonderful communal meal consisting of couscous, rice, vegetables, seasoned beef, red wine, and desert with the other residents of our albergue, who came from Germany, France, Spain, England, America, Canada, and Brazil. There was lively conversation as everyone introduced themselves and exchanged stories. At the end of our meal, the owner of the albergue gave us some advice for the trek ahead of us. He told us that "you need to remember to take water each day, take our time, and make sure you enjoy each moment." He also advised that "you should not carry your egos with you on the way, let the way chose you. You need to learn to accept rather than expect. Set your demands aside and you will find more of yourself and the world on the way." He also warned that "you will encounter difficulties physically and personally along the way and that you have to remember not to get frustrated by this. For some of you it will take a few days to get into the groove of the Camino and for others it might take a few weeks, but if you give it time, you'll find what you need." This sounds like very good advice!
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Practical information:
Distance: 820 km
Max Temperature: 28°C
Accommodations: Refuge Le Chemin vers l'Etoile, 21 rue d'Espagne, 30 Euros/per person (meal included)
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