Day 20 - Spanish Meseta : Castrojeriz to Fromista

Spanish Meseta on the Camino Frances

Our 6 AM wake-up came far too early today, and Sean is now clearly very ill. While he took another hot shower to try to get warm, I repacked our bags. Unfortunately, our morning went about as well as yesterday evening, and the antics of our resident Basil Fawlty, the albergue owner, continued. Our boots, now soaking wet, were locked in the outside courtyard, and our laundry was locked into the dining area, so despite being up early along with everyone else, we all had to wait for the owner to unlock everything at 7:30 AM before we could start getting ready. Apparently, the fire code is different in Europe than it is North America.

 

 

At 8 AM,  the proprietor finally began setting out the breakfast. Each pilgrim did their best to help set things out, while others started filling their plates and cups and sitting down at the communal table. However, the owner wanted everything done in a very specific way. He grew increasingly agitated as he began re-arranging where people who were already eating were sitting at the table, and then taking things away from them and returning them if they'd had the audacity to put tea in a coffee cup or place a muffin on the incorrect piece of flatware. Sean had his croissant snatched away from him while it was halfway to his mouth because he placed it on the side of his coffee saucer, and another lady beside us was yelled at for adding sugar to her tea.  All this happened in whatever language it is that the owner speaks - no one in our international group could make heads or tails of it. It might have been funny if we all hadn't been very hungry and anxious to get trekking. After these delays, given the circumstances, and how horrible he felt, Sean eventually got up and walked out without breakfast - which wasn't an auspicious way to begin a day's hike. Most in the Albergue soon followed and set out while the albergue owner continued to arrange the now-empty table. 

Pilgrimage out of Castrojeriz

The trek out of Castrojeriz follows an old Roman road prior to climbing a steep incline, which leads to a windy and exposed plateau. Given our breakfast situation and the cold, we were grateful to find a young lady operating a snack vending truck at the top of the hill, where we gratefully purchased two coffees and some fruit before heading off again. We were both struck afresh by the nature of the Camino, which seems to always provide. At the lowest points, when we are feeling sick and overwhelmed, something good always seems to happen, whether it is an unexpected meeting with friends, a random act of kindness from a stranger, an amazing meal, or a beautiful and memorable experience that picks up our spirits. I suspect that while these moments of beauty do exist in our daily lives at home, we don't notice them as much, because they don't have the same profound impact when we live surrounded by so much plenty. On the Camino, when you have begun to live with only what is on your back, it is the little details and precious kindnesses that become increasingly important.

 

As the sun rose and the cool wind abated, we trekked along the ancient path which eventually turned downhill and took us past a beautiful shelter- the Albergue of St. Nicolas, where many of our companions had stayed the previous day. St. Nicolas, a historical Hospital Para Peregrinos, is a cozy chapel on the side of the pathway in which there are a few bunks, a long common table, and a beautiful altar. I suspect that those who visited here had a very rewarding night, and felt that we had missed out on a wonderful experience. We continued on, crossing over the Puente de Itero del Castillo which spanned the Rio Pisuerga and into the province of Palencia.

By late morning we arrived in the town of Boadilla del Camino and took some time to explore the church and town square. Ultimately, however, we decided to hike onwards past a beautiful brick water tower and along a regional waterway to the town of Fromista. 

 

Rejoining Friends in Fromista

Eventually, we came to a lock system along the Canal de Castilla where we met two of our companions, who informed us that they were staying at the Albergue Estrella del Camino and suggested that we join them. 

 

We were soon registered, had our passports stamped, and were established in a wonderful, clean and spacious common room with only 4 bunk beds. Here we showered, aired out our backpacks and did laundry in the outside sink. I am forever amazed that despite washing our clothes every day, so much dirt comes out that it feels like none should be left on the trail.

Exploring Fromista

Given that we now both felt sick, we explored town and visited a pharmacy where we were fortunate enough to find an extremely friendly pharmacist who spoke English, and who helped us purchase the Spanish equivalent to Tylenol Cold medicine. Reassured and feeling better, we visited the local church, the Iglesia de San Martin, situated at the centre of town, received a stamp for our pilgrim passport, and marvelled at the calm, beautiful, simplicity of the structure. 

 

Afterwards, we wandered through town, purchased several postcards, and then decided to rest. For the remainder of the afternoon, we relaxed in the albergue's beautiful courtyard, where we caught up on our journals and blogs while enjoying a beer with several other pilgrims. Our goal for tomorrow is the town of Carrion de los Condes. 

See you on the Trail!
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Practical information:
Distance: 24.9 km
Max Temperature: 15°C
Accommodations: Albergue Estrella del Camino