This morning began before sunrise to the sound of the albergue owner screaming at her cows in the barn 20 ft from our room. There was no explanation for this, although mental health issues may have been a factor. Unfortunately
the albergue did not offer breakfast, and we were unprepared, so today's trek began without food.
We began hiking in the darkness under
a beautiful star filled sky. In the valley below us the lights of the villages glowed, as though marking our way. In
this manner we hiked through the fog along hedgerows and stone walls,
beside cattle pastures and farms, through the village of Filloba to the
beautiful town of Triacastela. Here we enjoyed a
cafe con leche and croissant in a bar in town, though sadly, the iconic
church, the Igrexa de Santiago de Triacastela, was closed.
At the edge of Triacastela we were tempted to take the
variant to Samos, which many of our hiking companions had opted for, but we decided to continue on the main Camino route though San Xil,
Calvor and into Sarria. Sadly, the way marker to the monastery in Samos had been highly defaced, and there was some confusion as to where the route actually began.
From Triacastela the path again headed upwards through lush green fields, along a tree lined walkway, and past a stone reflecting pond with a large shell mounted above it.
The day warmed up as we hiked through San Xil, past a communal rest area constructed by volunteers, and along
the roadside until we reached our destination.
The city of Sarria is located 100 km east of Santiago de Compostella on the Camino de Santiago, which is
the minimum distance one must walk to still receive ones credential
(though this is under review as of 2016 and might soon change). As a result, the number of pilgrims in town, most of whom were just beginning their walks, increased in a way that cannot be expected until experienced. Suffice it to say that Sarria marks a
change in the Camino for those who have walked from farther abroad, and
who are nearing the conclusion of their hike rather than the beginning
of it.
Near the centre of
town we inquired about bunks at the albergue Casa Peltre, which is a
beautiful building with a gated entrance, backyard garden, and washer
and dryer. While the albergue
had no bunks available in the common area, we were able to get beds in a
semi-private room adjacent to a kitchenette and living room. While
checking in we were also staunchly warned that the outer gates to the
albergue would be locked at 11pm and as such it would be wise to be in
prior to the curfew.
With a space for the night, we unpacked, washed,
shaved, did our laundry and hung it on the lines behind the albergue. In
the midst of this two young ladies, who were twins, were given the other bunk
in our room. Both of them quickly began applying makeup and changed into dresses for what they described as a night of
partying on the town. Not wishing to sit around
while others changed, we ventured out into the city to enjoy a late
lunch of potato and egg tortilla in a nearby bar. After this we explored the beautiful Celtic church of San Salvador, and
the church of Santa Marina, as well as purchasing post cards and a few hiking
supplies.
Sarria is a beautiful town, but uncharacteristically full compared to many we have visited along the Camino. Given that supper was not available at our albergue, we found a pizzeria with an outdoor courtyard hosting two guitar players. Drawn
by the lively nature of the establishment we enjoyed a large homemade
pizza and a bottle of red wine while listening to music for several
hours under patio lanterns! Though simple it was perhaps one of the nicest nights we have had out yet!
We soon returned back to our albergue after some evening photography of the town, and were in bed well before the curfew. Our
roommates however were not, and as a result, at 2 am the two ladies and
their companions stood screaming in the street for someone to open the
outer gates. With no answer from the residence,
both of them began banging on the gates and the windows of the
albergue to no avail. Regardless, their disruption soon had the resident pilgrims up and restless for the remainder of the night. Despite
my frustration with being awake in the middle of the night I keep remembering something Sean tells everyone. "Remember that a tough day today is a memory tomorrow and a great story in a week." A wonderful sentiment, but not of much use when you are this tired.
If all goes well there are only 5 days of
hiking left before we arrive in Santiago. I am not sure whether to
feel excited or sad.
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Practical information:
Distance: 25.1 km
Max Temperature: 26°C
Accommodations: Casa Peltre, Albergue
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