Day 36 - Tours, Taxis, and Tensions : Portomarin to Palas de Rei

We awoke this morning well rested and were out of bed before sunrise, more from routine than because of disturbance.  Packed and ready, we trekked into the morning twilight amid foggy streets and mist covered pathways.  After enjoying a cafe con leche and several fresh croissants at a bakery in Portomarin's main plaza we crossed over the Rio Mino and resumed our trek westward.  Soon we enjoyed a beautiful sunrise over the tree lined farmlands making this morning perfect.

Today we passed Camino markers which continue to count down the distances, now at 1 kilometer intervals.  This morning's first marker noted that we have 78.1 km to go to Santiago.  The reality that the end is now far closer than the beginning is now truly inescapable.  How has so much time and distance passed so quick?  How can the insurmountable Pyrenees and rugged climb to O'Cebriero be in the past?  How is it that we were just in St. Jean Pied Port, Alto del Perdon, Leon, and Cruz de Fero seemingly days ago and yet here we are...almost done?  How does 800 km pass so quick when just a few weeks ago it seemed an impossible task?  All of these questions circle in our minds these days. 

By 10 am we stopped to enjoy a second breakfast with friends at Albergue O'Cruceiro,  and again found ourselves slowing our pace and spending more time relaxing than hiking.

 

 

 

The path today alternated between sections of emptiness along dirt paths where we were the only hikers, and sections of incomprehensible crowds of pilgrims as the Camino proceeded along the roadways.  Particularly fascinating were the number of hikers - very clean pilgrims - running from bar to bar filling their stamp books with dozens of stamps per town, before getting back onto tour buses.  Several hikers walked up to us to show us their shells and "authentic pilgrim gourds".  Again we passed a fleet of taxi cabs trolling the roadways, asking pilgrims if they were tired and wanted a ride, and many of the tour buses at the crossroads had tables with snacks and bottles of water for members of their tour group. It seems in this stretch like there are bars and bakeries every 500 m or so, which did nothing to speed our progress.  One nice thing in this stretch is that many people who live along the Camino also leave out water, fruit, and other snacks for passing pilgrims, either for a small donation or as a simple act of kindness.

Over the course of the day we walked through Gonar, Ventas, Ligonde, and Portos.  

 

 

Upon arriving in Palas de Rei we immediately came to a large orange and white building, which was the Albergue San Marcos.

 

  

It looked more like a Super 8 hotel in Canada than a Spanish hostel for pilgrims.  While immaculately clean and complete with more services than most albergues, the hotel-like nature came as a surprise. That said, since Sarria the albergues have in general changed in style and seem to offer an increasing number of services.  Comfort never killed anyone, and so we checked in, were given a private room, and unpacked.  Once rested we showered, cleaned our laundry, and hung it in the courtyard, which was full of tour guides unloading pilgrim baggage.

  

Seeking to avoid the choas of our lodgings we explored the nearby church, the Parroquia de San Tirso de Palas de Rei, a small stone chapel.  With its adobe covered walls, lines of wooden pews, and simple design, we found San Tirso to be an intimate and peaceful place to reflect on the day.

Unfortunately, the tranquility of the chapel was broken when we went to get our passports stamped by the local priest.  We were asked to wait by a tour operator with 18-25 pilgrim passports, which he said he needed stamped while those in his group rested after their day's hike. I wonder how local Priests view the changes in the Camino over the years?  Are they grateful that so many people have returned to the Way, or are they frustrated that in many ways it is simply a tourist operation?

                 

Afterwards we sat in the albergue courtyard and talked with friends until dinner time, at which point we all visited a nearby bar for our evening meal of fresh pizza and a glass of wine.  It was wonderful to catch up with so many of our hiking companions whom we had seen and known since SJPP or Burgos or Leon.  In the past week many of our friends have slowly become more and more reflective as we get closer to Santiago, which means that the kinds of conversations we had along the trail weeks ago are now less frequent.  In addition, many of the pilgrims who have recently joined on the Camino are prone to partying and loud late night discussions, which means that those of us who have travelled from further back are increasingly getting private rooms. Although in some ways this is nice, it is also very isolating.   

 

We are now approximately 3 days away from Santiago, and have begun considering whether we have the time to get to Finisterre and perhaps Muxia on the coast of the Atlantic ocean. ______________________________________________________________________________

Practical information:

Distance: 24.8 km
Max Temperature: 17°C
Accommodations: Albergue San Marcos, albergue de peregrinos (25 Euros / double bed room)