Day 16 - Dinosaurs, Labyrinths and Cathedrals : Ages to Burgos

Dinosaurs, Labyrinths and Cathedrals on the Camino

Long Night on the Way of St. James

This morning was merely a continuation of last night's discontent and yesterday afternoon's chaos. From our arrival back at the albergue at 10 pm until we decided to leave at 3:30 am, there was a constant state of packing, unpacking, hugging, giggling, opening candies, going to the washroom, moving bunk beds to get in and out of the room, and non-stop conversations. When we decided we'd finally had enough, we got up, picked up our sleeping bags and backpacks, and left the room to change and re-pack in the common room downstairs. The tour guide, who had also spent the night in our room and was equally unrested, came out and sought to apologize to us and a few other pilgrims who were also leaving, for a poor night's sleep and his group's attitude. While this was going on, members of his group got up and began checking their bags, insisting that the pilgrims leaving had stolen their things and wanting to check before we left.

By 4:15 AM, after our and every other pilgrim's backpacks had been emptied and repeatedly sorted through by the members of the tour group, we were allowed to continue on.  Given the time of day, we departed without breakfast and in the pitch dark. Adding to our frustration, the trail led us up a rocky hill, through a military facility rutted by tanks and craters and lined with barbed wire, and past the archaeology sites of Atapuerca. Sadly, much of the morning's hike took place in the dark and with extreme difficulty, which meant that we missed much of the beauty along the route, including a stone labyrinth and many of the way markers. Indeed, not having the chance to visit Atapuerca, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the location of some of the earliest known fossils, was very disappointing for us. By sunrise, we were descending a rocking trail and approaching a small town which was full of moving security cameras, barking dogs, and walled houses. All in all, it was a very difficult and unnerving section of the trail to traverse in the dark.

Spanish Sunrise

As the sun began to rise, the Camino brought us to the village of Obaneja, whose small central chapel with its Gothic doorway and stained glass tympanum were both simple and beautiful. Continuing onward, we soon arrived in Villafria before entering the outer reaches of Burgos. In many ways, following the magnificence of the natural countryside, the approach to Burgos is not overly appealing. One approaches it along a tall security fence surrounding the airport and proceeds past the industrial centre, capped with large smokestacks, before arriving in the sprawling suburbs of the city proper. In the end, pilgrims walk 6-8 km through this type of industrial, commercial, and urban mess before getting to the city of Burgos. Perhaps one of the most unnerving things about approaching Burgos is the need to again be aware of traffic and other people. The transition from being in the countryside alone as a pilgrim to being in a large urban area as a pedestrian is not easy to adjust to, and cars seem to move much quicker than you remember.

 

Approaching Burgos

The path diverged on the edge of Burgos, offering pilgrims the choice of hiking straight into downtown through an industrial sector or meandering along a river pathway in the shade. Given the heat of the day, the time (we were again too early to check in anywhere), and the fact that it seemed easier to hike on a dirt pathway than concrete sidewalks, we chose to trek along the river towards the cathedral and the Albergue. 

For much of our trek, we were joined by a nice but nervous German hiker, who claimed to be wary of walking alone in the woods. To people who enjoy wilderness camping in Canada, this seemed more of an urban park to us, but we were glad of the company.

 

Burgos Cathedral

When we arrived downtown the city transformed from modern sprawl into historic beauty. However, I have to admit that we missed much of the intricacies of the city given the predominance, size, and beauty of the Cathedral. It is a structure which, despite being somewhat below you as you walk along the Camino, nonetheless dominates the main square of Burgos. The design of the town around it only emphasizes the cathedral's importance and magnificence. No other structures are placed against it, and as such the church sits on its own, un-crowded so that you can take your time and enjoy it from a myriad of perspectives.  

After taking time to sit outside the cathedral and enjoy an ice cream near its beautiful fountain, we trekked to the albergue, which we were dismayed to see already had a massive line up of pilgrims. Outside, one of the volunteers was informing passing pilgrims that it was likely that they were full for the evening. We called several other lodgings in the area and soon settled on a room at the stunning Hotel Abba Burgos. Although a hotel was definitely a luxury, we were pretty exhausted and grumpy at this point, and decided a private room with the opportunity for a long, long, hotel shower was very well worth it. Although the staff were very nice to us, the other guests, including a wedding party, were much fancier than us. I am pretty sure we were the only residents of the Hotel Abba who washed our clothes in the sink and hung them out to dry on the balcony.

Two hours later we headed out to the main square beside the cathedral, and picked up some post cards and a cafe con leche at an outdoor cafe. Soon after, now relaxed and caught up on our journals, we purchased our admission tickets to visit the Cathedral de Burgos. The structure, architecture and artistry of the cathedral is a combination of Medieval, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles which are a reflection of centuries of construction starting in 1221. 

When standing in the main square, the fountain outside of the cathedral, the church's massive central window, and the imposing spires which tower over most other buildings in the area, are the first to grab your attention. The interior of the cathedral contains beautiful stained glass windows, a historical alter, carved architecture, sculpted alcoves, medieval tapestries, tombs, a massive central organ, an imposing gilded stair case, and a statue of St. James - each of which needs to be seen to truly appreciate their wonder.

 

 

 

We also took the time to explore the enclosed cloister which was lined with marble encased tombs. The beauty of the cathedral's structure and its interior are almost beyond description, and I would certainly recommend leaving several hours to explore it properly.

 

Sadly, during our tour we again met the pilgrims from Saskatchewan, and learned that they had decided to leave the Camino and head home as they did not feel that the trip was what they had hoped for. We wished them well and watched as they walked away to get a flight to Madrid that afternoon. Once again our group of pilgrims has changed, with so far still to go. 

Later we explored Burgos, wandering its narrow streets and enjoying the rows of colourful buildings while trying to take in the sights, sounds, and culture of the city. During our wanderings we ran into several familiar pilgrims and decided to enjoy dinner with them in the town square beside the cathedral. 

Throughout our meal we began to meet pilgrims returning to the trail to continue previous year's hikes, and said goodbye to those whose Camino had come to an end for the moment. Given our celebratory mood, we ended up travelling with the group throughout the city from bar to bar until late into the evening.

While our conversations wandered throughout the night, we all chatted honestly about our reasons for coming onto the Camino with most hoping for direction, others seeking to overcome crises in their lives, and a few wanting to figure out what to do with relationships. The reasons, like the diversity of people on the trail, were varied and interesting. It is wonderful to be able to share your hopes, frustrations, and ideas with others without the type of judgment we usually encounter in our daily lives.

Pilgrim Reflections for the Day

Exhausted from our sleepless night, hike, explorations, and night of dancing and conversation, we returned to our room by 1 am to rest - happier than we have been in months, if not years. Today was a beautiful day spent in a beautiful city, and this evening was a wonderful and hope filled evening. Today, upon reflection, I want to apologize to anyone along the Camino if my routines in the evening and days have disrupted your trek. While I was quick to judge others for disturbing my rest and comfort, I initially did not give much thought to whether I may have done the same thing to others. As such, I have made a promise to strive to be a more accommodating and understanding person, as well as a more respectful pilgrim, so that I am not to someone else the type of traveller whom I have been frustrated with. 

See you on the Trail!
https://www.comewalkwithus.online/

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Practical information:

Distance: 22.5 km
Max Temperature: 32°C
Accommodations: Hotel Abba Burgos (75 Euros for the room)