Day 18 - The Way : Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

The Way of St. James

This morning we woke up early, well-rested and excited to set out and resume our hike. With that said, I have to amid that it is very hard to wake up to an alarm clock and decide to leave a regular bed with duvets for 5 hours of walking in the heat. Regardless, by 5:30 we were packed, checked out, and hiking towards the edge of Burgos. While it was nice to stop in a city with amenities, showers, and privacy, the noise and pace of urbanization soon had us eager to leave

 

 

Departing Burgos 

We walked through a set of historical gates, shown in the film "The Way," and after a short jaunt along city streets, passed the University of Burgos. From there we walked over a stone bridge crossing the river Arlanzon, under a highway bypass, and then were once again back in the countryside heading towards the Meseta.

 

 

 

Parting Ways on the Camino 

Throughout the day we both realized that many of the people that we set out with two weeks ago have moved on yesterday, and so we will likely not see them again. Surprisingly, this is a strangely hard concept to come to terms with, because we have become oddly invested in the welfare of those around us on the Camino. While it is unrealistic to hope that everyone remains together, we are left slightly saddened by the thought that we will likely never know how their pilgrimages turn out, or whether they found what they were searching for. 

The pathway today followed alongside the highway, through construction detours, and under overpasses. We passed through the villages of Tardajos and Rabe de las Calzadas along a trail that took us through farms and into the changing landscape of the Meseta. We have been hearing rumours that the Meseta is flat, boring, and horrid and that many people skip it because they are driven mad by the endless and monotonous landscape. So far, we have found it to be quite beautiful. Unless you were seeking shelter from a storm or the blazing sun, the Meseta provided for easy walking. And so in the open spaces of Spain, our morning passed by.

 

Hornillos del Camino

By early afternoon we stood on the edge of a hill overlooking the village of Hornillos del Camino. About 20 minutes later, after carefully negotiating the treacherous slope, we entered the town site, where we enjoyed a cool drink and a snack outside of a variety shop called "Area KM 469". 

Here, despite being early, we were allowed to check into the Albergue De Sol A Sol, which is a clean and beautiful albergue with a large common room. As it turned out, two of our Canadian friends are staying in the same Albergue tonight as well. It seems that we were all very lucky to get our beds, as within half an hour of arriving, pilgrims were informed that all albergues in this town and the adjacent one were full.

 

Exploring Hornillos del Camino

Having completed our usual routine of showering and cleaning our clothes, we enjoyed lunch at a nearby bar with several pilgrims. Afterwards, we wandered the surrounding countryside looking at historical bodegas, a type of Spanish family wine cellar, photographing the village, and visiting the church, the Iglesia San Roman, which is situated adjacent to the municipal hostel.  

 

With little to do, we napped most of the afternoon away and had dinner at a nearby bar with our fellow Canadian pilgrims. Despite the ease of the day, we were in our room by 8, where we relaxed and wrote our daily journals and blogs. Tomorrow our goal is to reach the town of Casterjeriz.

See you on the Trail!
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Practical information:
Distance: 20.1 km
Max Temperature: 20°C
Accommodations: De Sol A Sol