Day 23 - Pilgrim Advice : Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino
After a wonderful night's rest we both slept in until 5:45 am! Despite this we were still up and packed by 6:15, and ready to have a quick coffee and breakfast in the albergue before heading out. On the Meseta weather conditions become important to your daily routine, given that there is little shelter from the rain, sun, or wind. So far we have been very lucky with regards to weather, and today turned out to be no exception. Out here, these daily blessings are what make the difference between a great day, a manageable trek, and a challenging slog.
At the outskirts of Sahagun, we began to see road signs for Leon, and stone markers for the Camino, both of which are reminders that we have shifted into a new stretch of the trail now.
By late morning we crossed a stone bridge over the Rio Valderaduey, and rested in the shade of the church of the Virgen Del Puente, parts of which are adobe, and beside which stood two imposing statues akin to guardians on the way. In the scorched fields around us subtle purple flowers and yellow gorse bushes dot the landscape. After our break in the shade of the church we passed between the nearby statues and continued onward into the beautiful city of Sahagun.
Throughout town the Way was marked on both lamp posts and historic hitching posts, which had scallop shells in an artistic design. In Sahagun we were amazed by the wealth of possible locations to explore. We wandered through a local vegetable and fresh food market, visited the Iglesia de San Lorenzo, went into the local museum located near the Monasterio de San Facundo, and admired the historic city gates, the beautiful Arco San Benito. Unfortunately, limited by time, we had to continue hiking, making the town of Sahagun yet another on a growing list of places in which we could have spent far more time.
Outside the old city gates, we stopped beside a monument indicating that we had hiked about 400 km, making this the approximate half way point in the Camino from SJPP to Santiago. Interestingly, two German gentlemen were sitting here relaxing in the shade, and they were quick to point out that there is no midpoint in the Camino. They were hiking from Berlin, which would put "their" midpoint in France, while others had hiked from further abroad. In either case, there is still almost 400 km left, which is a long way to go. These kind gentlemen served as a great reminder that everything depends on perspective.
Continuing onward, we found that the walk between Sahagun and Bercianos was either beside quiet tree lined city streets, or on the flat meseta, making for an easy afternoon.
By mid afternoon we had reached Bercianos del Real Camino, a quiet village with few amenities. A corner bar was open, and we sat down and had a cold pint on their shaded patio.
The albergue de Peregrinos was our first experience with a donative albergue. It proved to be an eye opening experience for us, showing us the amount of hard work volunteers put into running the albergues, and the challenges they face from pilgrims. While in line we listened as hikers signed in and received their stamps. Many offered their thanks and made substantive donations for their lodgings (the recommendation being that you donate a similar amount to what you would pay in a private or municipal albergue, if you are able to). Others loudly commented on how "stupid" such people were, and how the "system was screwing them," professing that they would get the same lodgings for 50 cents or a single Euro. The people who held these views seemed to feel it was necessary to repeat them frequently throughout the evening, which became somewhat tedious. We were told that the donations of today's pilgrims will pay for the meals of tomorrow's residents, but even if that weren't case, I personally believe that everyone who can afford to pay the recommended amount should do so, if only to keep these valuable non-profits alive for everyone who benefits from them.
Our albergue had a wonderful side chapel for private contemplation, a cool interior, and clean bunks, although it was a little cramped for space. Our room fit eight bunks in a relatively small space, which at times I find a bit challenging. When there is no room to stand, and no floor space for the people in the upper bunks to put their backpacks, it can build a sense of cooperation between strangers, but it can also be a bit of a challenge when everyone is hot and tired. I guess this is something I have to work on in myself.
After unpacking, washing, and doing our laundry, we ventured back through town to a corner pub to enjoy large bocadillo con queso (sandwiches) and a pint or two of beer to quench our thirst in the heat. Here we relaxed, wrote our journals, and reviewed what was next on the Camino in our essential Brierley guidebook. While writing, one gentleman passed on his advice to us: "You don't write for today, you write for tomorrow. You know everything from today already, but tomorrow you will forget, and so you write it down for tomorrow." Yet another sage individual on the pathway whose words remind us of the simple truths we often forget.
In the evening we returned to the albergue to find that people were volunteering, and so I helped make dinner. Afterwards, we both headed out, explored the town, and while relaxing, we found a beautiful tiny tree frog in a nearby park.
At 8 pm we attended the pilgrim's mass, and later we sat outside in the local schoolyard admiring the sunset and enjoying the cool air. Given curfew and the rising warmth we were in bed by 10 pm, excited for the coming day.
British pilgrim when asked his plans for the next day.
Practical information:
Distance: 23.5 km
Max Temperature: 18°C
Accommodations: Albergue de Peregrinos, Bercianos (Donative, left 25 Euros each)
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