Day 24 - Simplicity on The Way : Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas

Simplicity on the Way 

Early Morning on the Camino

We awoke early when many of the other 16 people in our little room decided to start packing up and getting ready to leave at 4 AM. It was hot and humid, so by 4:30 we too were packed and back on the trail. Today, as always, I am amazed at the ability of the human body to continue onward, despite being hungry, tired, and unpleasantly warm.

Breakfast on the Way 

On our way out of town, we discovered that a nearby bar was already open, or rather it had yet to shut, due to last night's customers still watching the soccer game. This allowed us to have a quiche and cafe con leche prior to getting underway for the day. Today much of the hike was along the roadway or Senda, which punishingly reflected the light and heat as we walked onwards through the towns of El Burgo, past Villamarco, and Reliegos.

 

 

Perhaps the most beautiful part of today was during the early morning when we walked towards the setting full moon while the sun rose at our backs. Once the sun had risen however the heat soon set in and while young trees had been planted along the route, they provided only a little shade as we trekked along the roadway. As a result, we took several rest breaks in the shade of rolls of hay along the vast fields surrounding us, enjoying our cool water and some chocolate.

Rumours on the Camino

For whatever reason, today seemed to be busier on the trail with far more pilgrims. The perpetual rumours about all the albergues and towns ahead already being full also prevailed among those on the Camino today, which did not help ease our anxiety. I have come to believe that perception is perhaps the hardest foe on the Camino - when there are few pilgrims you worry that you have gotten lost, but when there are too many you fret about the crowds, and worry about getting a bed for the coming night. Despite the fact that we have never yet had any difficulties finding beds, these rumours often drive us to hike quicker and longer than we had intended.

Simplicity on the Way

Admittedly, today's hike was essentially uneventful, but it was nonetheless beautiful in its simplicity. We passed through the village of El Burgo Ranero, whose large brick water tower at the edge of town seemed to predominate the flat landscape. The country roadway we hiked down was lined with poppies and yellow gorse bushes. Dozens of "packs" of French cyclists passed us on the roadway, and the pace they set seemed shockingly fast for those of us hiking. After hiking passed the village of Villamarco we took time to enjoy a small earthen bodega in Reliegos. The joy of today's hike was found more in the small often neglected details and moments of The Way, rather than in any singular event.

Mansilla de las Mulas Spain

By early afternoon we had reached Mansilla de las Mulas, whose name translates as "hands on the saddle of the mules". As we entered town we were surprised by the standing ruins of the medieval walls around the old quarter. However, given the heat, we soon dropped our packs and sat down at the El Jardin del Camino on the edge of town for a celebratory pint of cold beer in the shade. While relaxing we inquired if we could get a bunk or a bed at the attached albergue where everyone we knew was staying, only to discover that all of the nearby places were already full. Worried, inquired at the municipal albergue downtown and found that it too was already full for the evening. We were fortunate however when a volunteer directed us to a downtown bar which had a room listed as available.

 

 

Soon after we arrived at the unlikely establishment we paid and were led upstairs into a sketchy building and given a room that can only be described as potentially being used as a brothel when not rented out to pilgrims. I have to admit that while the room - in its 80s pink and yellow colours - was rough, it was nonetheless very clean. We felt fortunate to find a room for the evening and grateful for our luck on the Camino. Inside and able to rest, we each took a shower, washed our clothes in the sink, and hung our hiking gear out the window to dry. 

Once settled in, we made our way back through town and visited the Iglesia de Santa Maria, which is a beautiful 18th-century church with a golden altar.

We also had the opportunity to explore the historic city walls, climbed broken turrets, and sat by the river enjoying the cool breeze off the water and the shade of the trees.

 

 

In the evening we returned to the El Jardin el Camino for dinner and were fortunate to chat with many of our friends and enjoy tales of their experiences throughout the past few days. We were also fortunate to get the opportunity to meet a new couple on the Camino from Victoria, Canada, who the others had met in recent days. After our evening meal with our friends, and not interested in rushing back to our abode, we took in the cool of the evening and explored the town again in the dark. 

Tomorrow we head into Leon, which means we are now closer to the end of our trek than the beginning - a stunning reality.

See you on the Trail!
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Practical information:

Distance: 26.7 km
Max Temperature: 25°C
Accommodations: Above downtown Bar - possibly a room in a brothel (50 Euros for room)