Day 25 - Vinto Tinto y Jamon : Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon
Despite our initial critique of last evening's lodgings, we had a great night's sleep! Once again we are reminded not to judge by appearance or presumption. Our day began early, and after a quick breakfast in the bar below, we headed out, across the Rio Esla at the edge of town, with the morning sunrise at our backs. Today's walk was a short one, much of which was alongside busy highways, through industrial regions, and in the neighbourhoods at the outskirts of Leon. We did pass through the towns of Puente Villarente, Arcahueja, and Puente Castro before arriving in the city of Leon itself.
With our arrival into the suburbs of Leon, we began to see a new type of marker for the Camino - a small lion dressed in a pilgrim's cloak carrying a staff. It looked kind of like the recent Olympic mascots.
Unsurprisingly, after weeks of hiking on pathways, the city roadways now seem very busy, fast, loud, and unrelenting. Today we also noticed for the first time a prevalence of signs, posters, and advertisements for albergues, hotels, and bars plastered over the walls and posts along the Way. While I understand that businesses necessarily complete with one another, and therefore try to attract as many visitors as possible, the level of commercialism we saw today was pretty off-putting. The issue of commercialization is one that is raised often in conversation among pilgrims. For my part, I worry about the effect of commercialism and western demands on Spanish culture, local communities, the Camino, and the pilgrimage experience, but I acknowledge that on some level the Way must have always been a business. I guess in the end it call comes down to how each person perceives and chooses to engage with the region and people around them.
Having arrived in Leon by late morning, we took our time winding through the outskirts, exploring the historical walls, and making our way to the center of the old section. Once we had reached the old quarter we set out through narrow alleys and streets in search of tonight's lodgings, the Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal. When we arrived at the monastery, volunteers had generously set out cool water and orange slices for those lined up for beds! Such kindness was so welcome, especially on such a warm day.
Enjoying our respite, we awaited in the shaded entrance of the Monastery, and by 2 we were welcomed in and shown to beds in a section specially designated for couples. Here I have to admit that travelling in a small group or with a friend clearly seems to make everything easier. You have someone to watch your bag while you shower, you have someone who can share the weight of whatever supplies you carry, and you have someone whom you can rely upon every day. Although travelling together comes with its own challenges, I take my hat off to everyone who makes this trek solo.
By mid-afternoon we were showered, and had washed our clothes and hung our laundry in the outside courtyard. Afterwards, we decided to explore the old quarter, visit artisanal shops, and see the famed Cathedral de Santa Maria beside the Plaza Regla. The first thing we noticed about Leon's central cathedral are its massive twin spires, which tower over the nearby rooftops, and which can be seen throughout the old quarter.
Once in the plaza surrounding the cathedral, the large doorway, beautiful tympanum, and impressive rose window dominate the face of the building. Compared to Burgos the combination of the vast vaulted ceiling and many stained windows makes the Cathedral in Leon appear larger, and the interior space is much brighter. Inside we took hours attempting to take in as much as possible. In particular, we enjoyed the lit recessed statues, the beautiful stained glass windows, and the amazing artwork.
Afterwards we continued to explore the city, and soon found the Museo Panteon, located at the Real Colegiata de San Isidoro, where we enjoyed the cool walkways and cloisters of the structure, as well as admiring the workmanship of those seeking to restore the local churches.
By 6 pm, though exhausted from the heat and excitement of the day, we trekked back to the central cathedral to meet a dozen or so of our fellow pilgrims to celebrate one of their birthdays. Outside the gates we gathered together, took a group picture, and headed to the famed bar, Jamon Jamon for an evening of wine and tapas.
The fact that so many people from so many different backgrounds, cultures, and experiences had met on the Camino and come together to celebrate one individual's birthday is a testament to the bonds formed on the Way. Indeed, it demonstrates how close such a group can become, and as the night progressed it seemed that almost everyone that we had met so far had come together to celebrate our mutual achievements and friendship.
Sadly, Leon was the endpoint of several people's journeys for this year, either because of time constraints, exhaustion, financial considerations, or injuries. Saying goodbye is always hard. After all, how do you tell someone their experiences and their willingness to listen have changed your life and then say goodbye? However, it seems you have to say it often on the Camino, and it is saddening to realize that it starts to become easier after a while.
After a while a group of us left Jamon Jamon and ventured out to another corner bar to try Spanish churros with dark rich chocolate. Although I'm sure this is far from a healthy snack, it certainly was tasty!
From what I understand, as of today we have approximately 300 kilometres left before Santiago. Not so long ago this would have seemed like an unfathomable distance, but standing here today it feels more like we are over half-way done, and definitely heading towards our final destination now. ___________________________________________________________________________________
Practical information:
Distance: 18.1 km
Max Temperature: 25°C
Accommodations: Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal
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