Day 25 - Vinto Tinto a d Jamon : Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon
Vinto Tinto and Jamon in Leon
Despite our initial critique of last evening's lodgings, we had a great night's sleep! Once again we are reminded not to judge by appearance or presumption. Our day began early, and after a quick breakfast in the bar below, we headed out, across the Rio Esla at the edge of town, with the morning sunrise at our backs. Today's walk was a short one, much of which was alongside busy highways, through industrial regions, and in the neighbourhoods on the outskirts of Leon. We passed through the towns of Puente Villarente, Arcahueja, and Puente Castro before arriving in the city of Leon itself.
Leon Spain
Unsurprisingly, after weeks of hiking on pathways, the city roadways now seem very busy, fast, loud, and unrelenting. Today we also noticed for the first time a prevalence of signs, posters, and advertisements for albergues, hotels, and bars plastered over the walls and posts along the Way. While I understand that businesses necessarily compete with one another, and therefore try to attract as many visitors as possible, the level of commercialism we saw today was pretty off-putting. The issue of commercialization is one that is raised often in conversations among pilgrims. For my part, I worry about the effect of commercialism and Western demands on Spanish culture, local communities, the Camino, and the pilgrimage experience, but I acknowledge that on some level the Way must have always been a business. I guess in the end it all comes down to how each person perceives and chooses to engage with the region and people around them.
Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal
Enjoying our respite, we awaited in the shaded entrance of the Monastery, and by 2 we were welcomed in and shown to beds in a section specially designated for couples. Here I have to admit that travelling in a small group or with a friend clearly seems to make everything easier. You have someone to watch your bag while you shower, you have someone who can share the weight of whatever supplies you carry, and you have someone whom you can rely upon every day. Although travelling together comes with its own challenges, I take my hat off to everyone who makes this trek solo.
By mid-afternoon, we were showered and had washed our clothes and hung our laundry in the outside courtyard. Afterwards, we decided to explore the old quarter, visit artisanal shops, and see the famed Cathedral de Santa Maria beside the Plaza Regla. The first thing we noticed about Leon's central cathedral is its massive twin spires, which tower over the nearby rooftops, and which can be seen throughout the old quarter.
Once in the plaza surrounding the cathedral, the large doorway, beautiful tympanum, and impressive rose window dominate the face of the building. Compared to Burgos the combination of the vast vaulted ceiling and many stained windows makes the Cathedral in Leon appear larger, and the interior space is much brighter. Inside we took hours attempting to take in as much as possible. In particular, we enjoyed the lit recessed statues, the beautiful stained glass windows, and the amazing artwork.
Afterwards, we continued to explore the city and soon found the Museo Panteon, located at the Real Colegiata de San Isidoro, where we enjoyed the cool walkways and cloisters of the structure, as well as admiring the workmanship of those seeking to restore the local churches.
Evening in Leon Spain
By 6 PM, though exhausted from the heat and excitement of the day, we trekked back to the central cathedral to meet a dozen or so of our fellow pilgrims to celebrate one of their birthdays. Outside the gates, we gathered together, took a group picture, and headed to the famed bar, Jamon Jamon for an evening of wine and tapas.
The fact that so many people from so many different backgrounds, cultures, and experiences had met on the Camino and come together to celebrate one individual's birthday is a testament to the bonds formed on the Way. Indeed, it demonstrates how close such a group can become, and as the night progressed it seemed that almost everyone that we had met so far had come together to celebrate our mutual achievements and friendship.
Sadly, Leon was the endpoint of several people's journeys for this year, either because of time constraints, exhaustion, financial considerations, or injuries. Saying goodbye is always hard. After all, how do you tell someone their experiences and their willingness to listen have changed your life and then say goodbye? However, it seems you have to say it often on the Camino, and it is saddening to realize that it starts to become easier after a while.
After a while, a group of us left Jamon Jamon and ventured out to another corner bar to try Spanish churros with dark rich chocolate. Although I'm sure this is far from a healthy snack, it certainly was tasty!
From what I understand, as of today, we have approximately 300 kilometres left before Santiago. Not so long ago this would have seemed like an unfathomable distance, but standing here today it feels more like we are over halfway done, and definitely heading towards our final destination now.
https://www.comewalkwithus.online/
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Practical information:
Distance: 18.1 km
Max Temperature: 25°C
Accommodations: Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal
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