Day 38 - Nearly There : Ribadiso to O Pedrouzo

We were awake by 7 am and headed to the bar next door for breakfast, where thankfully we ran into our friends from yesterday, and were able to apologize.  After a coffee and toast we all hiked through the early morning darkness and fog towards our last stop before Santiago.

 

Emotions are now running high and we aren't sure how to feel getting this close to the end of the hike. The morning's walk began with a steep climb through the fog as we followed the roadway, and then we passed through forests and more small villages. We were again fortunate to watch the sunrise from the top of a ridge, where we could see a city below illuminated by the light as it poured through the fog.

 

Soon afterwards, while we walked along well worn and tree lined pathways, we all spaced out and left one another to our own thoughts for the day. This is typical of most days, despite beginning the trek together.  After some time, according to our hiking pace, coffee breaks, and photographic opportunities, we eventually separate along the trail, only to meet back up again each night. The trail again seemed far too busy to us, as we passed through the towns of Arzua, Salceda, and Santa Irene we found everything far too pilgrim oriented.  Although the countryside is very beautiful here, and the hiking is easy, I don't find the last 100 km to represent the best of the trail.  Although very touristy, one of the highlights of today came when we passed by a beautiful bar with a stone wall lined with Peregrina beer bottles. 

 

 

 

We arrived into O Pedrouzo in the early afternoon amid the heat of the day, and found ourselves walking along the urban sidewalks of a thoroughly modern town. Throughout the day we had wondered whether we should stay in a municipal albergue for our final night, to be with others, or if it was better to have the space and time to reflect alone. Ultimately, we settled on the Pension Pedrouzo, a residence best described as an apartment/hotel. It is a clean and accommodating residence, but it is also a far cry from the communal albergues we enjoyed so much at the outset of our hike. Perhaps most distinguishing was the fact that our towels were laid out as swans on the bed. Ironically, and I don't want to sound as though I am complaining, while it is enjoyable to get a good night's sleep, we have begun to feel that such accommodations are insolating from much of the Camino experience. That said, many of our friends who have remained in communal dorms and albergues have begun to look very tired, and are often very frustrated. I think that regardless of the way one travels along the Camino it seems clear that a day or two in alternative residences or in private rooms from time to time helps you recharge and get a good night's sleep. Our room tonight is a simple one, with a private washroom and large window which overlooks a farmer's field and town church. After showering, washing our laundry and airing our shoes in the sun we set out to explore the town.

Several blocks from our room we found a bakery to enjoy a sandwich, water, and ice cream. While sitting on the patio enjoying the afternoon we ran into our American and Canadian friends and talked about Santiago, the end of the hike, and the possibility of meeting the next day after the pilgrim's mass. Afterwards we wandered around town for a while, exploring. 

After wandering town we headed out to the nearby Eucalyptus forest that we would hike through in the morning, likely in the dark. Here we found a wonderful and magical landscape unlike any we could have imagined. The peaceful calm of the woods, the scent of eucalyptus, and the meandering trails made for a wonderful afternoon hike. I was so glad that we visited it while we could see and enjoy it. Too many times we have hiked through beautiful regions in the morning darkness and I often wonder what we have missed out on. 

 

As the evening set in we texted friends to join us for dinner at a local restaurant, but ultimately we received no responses, as most had taken rooms at the edge of town to have a quiet evening alone prior to the final hike into Santiago. By 7 pm we decided to head out for dinner together at the magnificence restaurant called Taste the Way. Here one could sample small portions of various dishes from along the Camino throughout Spain - everything we ate (and we kept ordering more) was incredible - pumpkin and pea soup, fresh bread, Santiago cake, and Roija wine.  We sat at a long communal table with other pilgrims, and shared stories, food, and a friendly atmosphere.  What a truly wonderful establishment, and an appropriately reflective way to bring our hike to a conclusion! 

Full and happy, but not wanting to go back to our room, we spent a good deal of the evening walking around town, photographing, and talking about the past month. Talking about how to continue this experience when we got home. Discussing the possibility of hiking another route similar to the Camino in the future, and figuring out what comes next in our lives. As a result, we returned very late to our room, where we sat up, looking over some of the pictures we had taken throughout the last month, re-reading our journals and blogs, thinking about everything along the way, and planning our approach into Santiago in the morning. I sit here smiling, amazed at this achievement, laughing at moments of frustration, and crying that it is all about to end. 

 

I know I have to head to bed soon. It is 2am. I know that I won't sleep. I am too excited and far too reflective. I find that today I am doing something that I often don't - pray. I pray that we see many of those who we have consistently hiked with or near throughout our voyage.  I  wonder about those whom we have met only briefly, and whether we will meet them again too. I wonder if they have all had safe journeys? I wonder if they have found what they needed? I go to bed wondering.....

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Practical information:

Distance: 22.8 km
Max Temperature: 20°C
Accommodations: Pension Pedrouo (45 Euro / room with a private washroom)