Day 39 - Final Day on the Camino : O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

Final Day on the Camino

Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela

Our apologies for posting a day late. The excitement of getting into Santiago, meeting old friends, and enjoying our evening celebrations together made sitting, typing, and posting somewhat less of an immediate priority.

Yesterday morning, after an uneasy and excited "final sleep" on the Camino Frances, we were up very early to hike out to be checked in, cleaned up, and at the cathedral in Santiago for the pilgrim's mass at noon. From O Pedrouzo to Santiago, we had just under 20 km to hike, which we accomplished at what felt like an absurdly fast pace that let us cover the distance in 3.5 hours! Setting off into the early morning dark meant that the previous day's exploration of the Eucalyptus forest paid off (given how confusing such areas can be) and we were able to adeptly navigate our way along the pathway without difficulty.

Surprisingly, a short way along the trail we ran into a Dutch lady who was collecting pilgrim stories on the Camino. As she joined us we were told that she had completed part of the Camino Frances and then turned north, explored the Camino Norte, and recently returned to the main route to finish in Santiago. As we listened to her story we ended up hiking together for several hours while making our final push. En route, we also ran into many of the German, American, and Canadian pilgrims whom we had met and talked with along the Camino, and we all promised to find one another again later in the day. Energized we continued onwards.

Lavacolla 

After just over an hour of hiking along a forested pathway we arrived in the village of Lavacolla, where the three of us enjoyed a brief breakfast in a trailside bar, called the Cafe a Concha, which consisted of bagged chocolate croissants and weak coffee. While hardly the best fare we've had on the Camino, the warmth and energy it gave us was quite welcome. The village of Lavacolla has a historical resonance along the Camino de Santiago. The name itself literally translates into "Ball Wash", and purportedly was the location in which pilgrims traditionally washed themselves after a final evening of enjoyment with prostitutes before heading to the cathedral in Santiago to be "cleansed" of their sins. Sadly, in the dark, we could not locate the historical ponds or baths, so we continued our trek past a beautiful Celtic cross, up a large staircase, past the local church, the Iglesia de Lavacolla, and back onto the Camino Santiago.

As the darkness lifted the trail ceased moving through forests and along dirt pathways, and instead travelled between buildings, along the roadway, past the Santiago airport, and into the suburbs of the city itself. If it wasn't for our excitement, much like Pampalona, Burgos and Leon, I would say that a great deal of this section was uninspiring. Indeed, on any other day this type of trail would have been met with critique, but today, as we enter Santiago, it symbolizes our arrival after more than a month of hiking!

 

Monte do Gozo 

After meandering through residential neighbourhoods we soon arrived at Monte do Gozo, from which pilgrims get their first look at the Cathedral in Santiago. Traditionally, many pilgrims stop here the night before hiking into the old city of Santiago to reflect upon their journey. For our part, I cannot imagine, given our level of excitement, how anyone could stop so close to the end on the very edge of the city! I will admit that I can appreciate the symmetry of beginning in a large albergue like Roncesvalles, and concluding in the one at Monte do Gozo. While we did not spend an evening here, we nonetheless spent some time admiring the nearby monument to Pope John Paul II and briefly visited the iconic Pilgrim monument, whose arms point out the direction of the cathedral in the distance. We also took a moment to visit the small chapel on the hillside, the Capilla de San Marcos. 

  

Arrival into Santiago de Compostela

With less and less time before the Pilgrim's Mass, we headed downhill into the city of Santiago and found ourselves now almost speed-walking through the city streets in a steady stream of other pilgrims.

Along city sidewalks, through parks, and across roads we hiked, and along with lines of other pilgrims we trekked with one similar goal in mind - following the bronze shells inlaid into the sidewalk towards the Cathedral. We rushed past the sign for the city of Santiago and past countless crosses, churches, monuments, and other adornments in our haste. 

Pilgrim Mass in Santiago

Though we wanted to get to the Cathedral with everyone else, we had decided last night to check in and drop off our bags before the service. As we passed on the municipal albergues we stopped to get a room, only to discover that they were already full at 9:30 AM! We tried again at another albergue, with the same result.  Stunned by this, we were (bless the kindness of the Albergue volunteer) directed to a wonderful residence about a block away, the Hotel San Lazaro. Now unreasonably worried about missing mass, we inquired about a room, checked in, took very quick showers, changed our clothes, and resumed our race towards the Cathedral!

Along the route through the city, we found quotes engraved in the ground, among which one stood out the most: "Europe was made on the pilgrim road to Compostelle". Having "just" traversed the width of Spain never had such a sentiment seemed so true! We soon found the cathedral, hiked past the beautiful gardens in the Plaza de la Imaculada, through the arch of Pazo do Palacio, down the staircase, past the Parador Hotel, and arrived at the front of the iconic Santiago de Compostella Cathedral. A massive structure, imposing in the large plaza - the Praza do Obradoiro! This was a site it was difficult to imagine ever seeing, and ultimately we would only see half of it, as the historical structure was covered in blue scaffolding. Neither the excitement nor the disappointment can be expressed. The cathedral itself was a welcome sight, it was our goal, it was the "prize" we had been working toward for weeks and across hundreds of kilometres. 

 

After several moments of excitement and reflection, we were struck by the odd thought, where do we go now? I am done, is this the end? Fortunately, that question was easily (if only temporarily) answered for us, given that the pilgrim mass was due to start within 1/2 an hour of our arrival.  We did not have much time to enjoy the achievement and instead, we found our way into the Cathedral to find two seats. Once settled we soon began to see, meet with, and hug those whom we had not seen in over a month, those we had trekked with and knew by sight but had never met with, and many whom we had hiked with continually day after day for weeks! In the end, almost all of our Canadian, American, German, French, and Australian companions arrived for the same pilgrim mass. Those who we could not find we were soon told were only a day behind and we would see tomorrow. What a perfect reunion!

 

 

Highly emotional, we sat throughout the Pilgrim's mass reflecting on our hike, on our friends, and all that we had been through. At the conclusion of the service we were fortunate to be able to see the Botafumerio swing in the cross nave of the cathedral! Once a regular tradition, the Botafumerio is only used one day a week (not today) and on special occasions now.  Apparently, we are very lucky, as is was being swung today owing to the visit and generosity of a royal visitor to the cathedral. We felt very fortunate!  For those who do not know, the Botafumerio itself is a large incense burner suspended from the ceiling of the cathedral, filled with Frankincense and swung across the nave of the structure, filling the building with its scent. Historically the Botafumerio was used to bless pilgrims at the conclusion of their pilgrimage and, on a more practical level, likely to cover the smell of their bodies after such a long trek. When in action, it is mesmerizing. 

 

 

After the church service, we took a few minutes to say hi to many of those we recognized and enjoyed some quiet time to sit and reflect on the grand structure. We also wandered the cathedral photographing its vaulted ceiling, huge windows, the large golden altar, the beautiful side alters, and the walkways above. The artistry throughout the structure ranged from simple and dignified to ornate and overdone. Unfortunately, as with the outside, much of the interior of the cathedral was also covered in scaffolding or closed off.  This included the Portico da Gloria, with its iconic Central Mullion, which is a central pillar that centuries of pilgrims have approached on their knees and laid their hands on, thus wearing a handprint into the stone.

After visiting the cathedral we lined up to walk through the Holy Doors, or the Puerta Santa. The Holy Doors of the Cathedral in Santiago are open only during Holy Years, and 2016 was declared the Holy Year of Mercy by Pope Francis. As we entered we were able to admire the artistry on the face of the door showing the life of St. James.

 

Hugging St. James

The ornate and carved doorways are beautiful and worth a few minutes. Once inside, the line proceeded behind and around the main altar to a small staircase. Here we stepped up and were able to hug the golden statue or Effigy of St. James and get a quick glimpse of the cathedral from behind the altar. I was fortunate enough to be able to hug him and kiss his back, but Sean had to step aside and missed his chance to do so as a woman ahead of him in line had become very emotional and refused to let go of the figure of the saint despite security's best attempts to extract her. In order to keep the line moving security asked Sean to move on and so together we both proceeded downstairs, where we briefly paid our respects to the remains of the Saint in the crypt below, which purportedly reside in a caged silver box.  With little space in the small room, we were quick to move on to allow others their time with the saint.

 

Pilgrim Celebrations and Reflections

With everyone gathered after mass, we found out that while many of us were staying for a couple of days in Santiago, several were leaving almost immediately. As such we all moved to the nearby Plaza de la Quintanata underneath the Cathedral clock tower and near the Pilgrim Holy door, pushed a few of the restaurant tables together, and celebrated all of our achievements. For several hours we all sat together, consuming large plates of tapas, bottles of wine, and decanters of Spanish Sangria while we talked and reminisced. By 3 PM we dispersed, with some people heading off to find an albergue, others heading to the airport or train station, and still others (such as ourselves) intent on getting our credentials.

Pilgrim Office and Credentials

The new pilgrim office, several blocks away from the cathedral, was easy to find. Once there, we waited in line for some time with hundreds of other excited pilgrims with our stamped passports. Despite reports and rumours to the contrary, the volunteers in the pilgrim office were wonderful, curious, kind, talkative, and supportive. We both decided that in addition to the pilgrim credential you can receive for free upon presentation of your stamped passport, we would purchase the Latin credential and cardboard tube to transport them home.  On the Latin credential, the volunteers fill in your name in Latin, as well as the place and date you began your pilgrimage, and the date you finished.  Perhaps the most exciting part for me was to receive my Latin name! I also have to say that the artistry of the credentials is absolutely beautiful! While in line for my credential, a volunteer told me that to be completely absolved of your sins you need to walk through the Holy Doors at the cathedral with your documentation, so I quickly trekked back to the church and went back through for a second time, figuring that since I am here, I might as well be extra sure. 

Soon afterwards we returned to our hotel room, washed up again from a day spent in the warm sun, and set back out to stroll around the old quarter of Santiago. Some of the confectionery shops, and papery stores were beautiful to look into. Certainly one of the most interesting parts of being in France and Spain must be the gorgeous window displays, which shops still assemble each day. Around 7 pm we met everyone back at the cathedral and trekked off for a communal celebration dinner together at the wonderful Casa Camilo. Here we pushed 5 tables together and sat on the patio in the warmth of the evening. In so many ways our Camino was now completed. It was a night of excitement at having achieved our goals and being together, but extreme sadness with the realities of being done, and the realization that many of our companions had already headed home. In other words, the evening was full of a range of emotions, thoughts, and conversations which are hard to describe or put into words. 

With our meal completed we all wandered back to the plaza in front of the Cathedral and lay on the ground watching the stars - on a beautiful clear night. Nearby we heard a group of musicians playing and so we walked over and listened to the group of singers called Tuna de Derecho and danced. We also purchased their CD which I am listening to as I type this.  

Nearing midnight we all said our good nights and made plans to again meet the next day for dinner in order to include one Canadian couple with whom we had travelled but who were now a day behind - and also because we wanted to hold onto the moment for as long as possible. Afterwards, we returned to our hotel room and, unable to sleep, I decided it was best to write my journal and update the blog while everything was still so fresh in my mind. What a wonderful day and what a beautiful conclusion to our Camino in Spain!

See you on the Trail!
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Practical information:

Distance: 19.8 km
Max Temperature: 21°C
Accommodations: Hotel San Lazaro (45 Euros/room)